“Your life is so wealthy that it’s tough to sum it up in a number of phrases. However in the event you solely needed to bear in mind three moments?
First I’ll say my marriage to my spouse. It was within the 80’s… properly I forgot the yr (smiles). I did not assume I might get married sometime, however she informed me ” Okay, so hey! “I saved it:” Wait, wait, do not go. Let’s get married. ” She : ” Are you certain ? ” I mentioned ” Sure Sure! Then we went to the seashore. The waves have been good and she or he requested me which one I selected. ” I select you! I answered. And we obtained married. The second second in my life is the start of my son, in 1989. After which I remembered my first good board made for browsing on Pipeline, within the early 70’s. It was a really slender single fin (fin). I referred to as it the Coral Cruiser, it turned the prototype for many boards of the time.
Moreover your life story, what are the essential messages that you just needed to convey together with your documentary?
That browsing has so many classes to show us about life. I realized these classes whereas browsing. In brief, the primary message is to dwell with the spirit of “Aloha” (respect, kindness, love, friendship, calmness …), and with the concept of by no means giving up. You all the time should hold rowing, not simply in browsing, however in a broader, extra metaphorical sense. When there are trials or difficulties, don’t hand over, however all the time hold shifting ahead.
How do you clarify that browsing has grow to be so well-liked?
The rationale folks began to love it’s as a result of it feels good. Whenever you’re drained or depressed you go to the seashore and even in the event you assume it is an excessive amount of of a problem to choose up a board and paddle, simply do it as a result of you understand you are going to really feel higher afterwards . Each time I’ve gone out to sea, I’ve not regretted it for a second. It is essential in life to have one thing you may depend on to cheer you up it doesn’t matter what. Particularly on the planet we dwell in now, the place there may be a variety of unrest and issues.
How did yoga and meditation make you a greater surfer and a greater particular person?
In life it’s usually straightforward to lose focus. Protecting the concentrate on one factor isn’t straightforward. Meditation teaches you to be attentive, to remain centered.
What are you most happy with?
In all probability the truth that I am nonetheless browsing.
You clarify within the movie that in some unspecified time in the future you grow to be one with the wave of G-Land, Indonesia. What does this particular feeling appear like?
G-Land is a really tough wave to grasp. Getting there and understanding the way it works took a variety of unfinished falls and ripples. However fortunately, because the environment was very calm and nobody was round, we have been capable of focus absolutely on the wave. Sort of like going to a Zen temple. You possibly can meditate extra simply. Identical to at college, think about a trainer behind you with a giant stick behind the door. Should you lose your focus, he’ll hit you arduous with that stick. G-Land was the identical. Solely it was not a stick however the lip of the wave that got here to punish us. So that actually compelled us to all the time keep absolutely centered. By doing this, we have now realized rather a lot about ourselves. And after a when you notice that every part suits. Each time I got here again and my toes touched the sand, my complete physique felt good and in tune with the surroundings. I used to be like at house. A sense of heat came visiting me. It was a variety of love.
Should you needed to surf one final time earlier than you died, would you take pleasure in G-Land or Pipeline?
At this level I believe I might experience any good wave. It would not should be Pipeline or G-Land. I obtained every part I needed from Pipeline and G-Land. There are such a lot of different guys on the market desirous to surf it nowadays that now’s their time. I depart them. My time there may be over. So it may be anyplace, like right here on the Chambre d’Amour (Anglet). I simply have to like this wave.
“Lastly I understood that we had settled within the mountains to steadiness my life”
You have got shot some well-known motion pictures like The Large Wednesday or Canon le Barbare. What have you ever realized from these Hollywood experiences?
That I did not need this way of life. It is an excessive amount of preventing. And that does not match with a life stuffed with browsing and yoga. Cinema, Hollywood, it is attention-grabbing and it is enjoyable for some time, however after some time it isn’t anymore. And I noticed what occurred to a few of my buddies, like Jan-Michael Vincent (the Supercopter actor he filmed The Large Wednesday with, editors word). His life has gone incorrect, it is rather unhappy. I do not know in the event you noticed any footage of him earlier than he died, he was unrecognizable. There was no approach he was rowing and getting one final wave. Me, I need to row to the tip.
Why snowboarding has grow to be your favourite pastime and what sort of enjoyable do you get out of it?
My spouse and I moved to Oregon to be within the mountains, and at first I naively thought that snowboarding was like browsing with out rowing. The chairlift takes care of that and all it’s important to do is slide. It is nice, however only a lazy option to surf. I lastly understood that we had settled within the mountains to steadiness my life. I needed to perceive this surroundings, discover the tranquility that’s particular to this sort of place. That is what my film is about. Yin, relating to my interior self, stuffed with a variety of browsing. It’s balanced by the Yang, the mountains. That is why I’ve by no means been so balanced. And now I can return to the ocean.
Gerry Lopez. (J. Divine/Patagonia)
Mathieu Crepel informed us sooner or later, with astonished eyes on the event of the discharge of his movie Shaka, that you just have been the primary one on the slopes each morning, is it true?
Sure, I prefer to get there early, sit within the chair first, see the mountain earlier than everybody else and climb it. It is like after it snows, it is a new world up there. The view is so inspiring, so stunning. After I see that, it is like a spiritual pressure. It offers me vitality, I’ve the impression that I’m within the presence of God. The mountain is my church.
“They (Brazilians) are so fierce in competitors”
What relationship do you’ve got with France and its surf spots?
I’ve an extended historical past with Biarritz. We landed in 1971 and there weren’t that many surfers then. I’ve vivid reminiscences of La Barre (Anglet) and Hossegor. We might drive on the seashore, go the place we needed. It is a wonderful ocean right here, with good waves and now superb surfers. You must know that you probably have good waves, you’ll all the time have good surfers.
What do you assume of the present browsing competitions and the dominance of Brazilians like Gabriel Medina, Italo Ferreira and Filipe Toledo?
They appear to be the very best and that is for my part as a result of possibly they’re extra passionate than the others. They’re so fierce in competitors, it is spectacular. Filipe, Gabriel and particularly Italo are nice to see. I all the time have a look at them, I actually recognize them. »
The inimitable type of Gerry Lopez, at Pipeline. (J. Cassimus/Patagonia)